First published in Options, The Edge Malaysia, 9 Sept 2018 at http://optionstheedge.com/topic/travel/visiting-temples-bhubaneshwar
Visiting the temples
of Bhubaneshwar
Taking the train to Bhubaneshwar was like entering another
India. This was the timeless India rushing by outside the windows: of brown rivers, green fields, vignettes of
villages on dusty roads, farmers toiling in the fields, with the train journey
itself being a reminder of a venerable institution beloved of, reviled by, and
quintessentially, India.
Tiffin was served in aluminium-foil covered trays: a creamy
orange-coloured tomato soup in a cup, a “Soup Stick & Butter Chiplet”
(bread finger with a knob of butter), white rice, a weak aloo curry, a
watery dhal, a choice of chicken or paneer (cheese) dish, a tub of
yoghurt, and a sickly sweet gulab jamun dessert. The placemat, a single sheet of thin paper, advertised
meals available on board, and Holiday Packages by the IRCTC (Indian Railway
Catering and Tourism Corporation Limited).
It carried the stern admonition “Please do not pay Tips”. Not unexpectedly, towards the end of the
journey, the carriage attendant came around with open palm, followed minutes
later by the cleaners who swept the carriage, soliciting tips.