The Glam
and the Tradition
The glitz and buzz of Chengdu’s upscale Tai Koo Li neighbourhood belies its humble origins. Crowds gather at the street corner opposite the giant curved LED screen waiting for the 3D-efffect pandas to come onstage and tumble off screen. Nearby, the Gucci building glows with enveloping LED walls, and around the corner are the branded European luxury-goods shops.
Hidden in
this mecca of bright lights and retail worship, is the historic Daci temple,
where the monk Xuanzang – whose epic journey seeking Buddhist scriptures is
enshrined in Chinese literature in “Journey to the West”, was ordained. It is a
sanctuary of the ‘old’ China, and not the only one.
Small
family-run shops along neighbouring East Kangshi street sell everyman meals,
from dan-dan noodles to stewed rabbit heads, to simmering pots of
wicked-looking ma’la stews.
At the end
of this bustling row, in the shadow of glamour and tradition, Ma’s Kitchen is
easy to miss, were it not for the queue of people patiently waiting outside,
holding numbered tickets.