Excellent Western
fare, cigars and wine, in a clubhouse setting
I didn’t know what to expect at Connoisseurs, in the first
floor of the East Wing of the swanky KLGCC, with its marble-lined corridors. The
sweet smell of cigar smoke struck my nostrils in the dim lighting within, as I
stepped past a humidor on one side, and a wine cellar on the other, into the
dining space of the lounge and restaurant.
A big bar occupied pride of place, and the atmosphere was distinctly
clubby, with fat leather sofas, a band arrangement and tablecloth-covered
dining tables.
Next door was the non-smoking dining room, and more
extravagant opulence. Timbered floor,
semi-wood paneled walls hung with oil paintings, an intimate atmosphere
engendered by cosy table lamps, marble table-tops with brocade-upholstered
gold-painted French style chairs, all shouted – perhaps a little too loudly –
opulence. Nor was this all, there were
private Karaoke rooms off corridors, as richly furnished with wallpaper,
marble, gold painted chairs and flat screen TVs.
Across the other side of the bar area where we’d entered
were more rooms, including a smoking lounge with Chesterfield sofas, more
marble, comfy chairs and oil paintings. Private dining rooms with projectors
and projection screens catered to corporate bigwigs over dine and show, while
balconies opening out on various sides led to outdoor lounge areas overlooking
the extensive golf greens.
It was American-country-club meets French period style opulence
meets Chinese-inspired clad waitress. To
further compound the cultural mix, thick leather clad iPads constituted
menus. For a first timer to the
restaurant, there was a lot to absorb, but it was easy to see how one could get
used to this sort of thing.
I found out that the restaurant has accommodated up to 300
for parties and events. Given the expanse of the wine and cigar selection, it
was evident that high living was alive and well. I imagined business deals being struck over
cigars and brandy in the confines of a private room.
The menu provided a traditional selection of Western dishes,
from Starters to Pastas, Pizzas, Mains and Desserts with a couple of local
dishes thrown in for those who cannot live without their Curry Laksa.
Our Insalata Di Fruitti (Rm35) could have made an entire
meal for a small appetite. Mango,
peaches, strawberries, kiwifruit and olives mixed it up with crisp, cold
lettuce leaves in a honey-balsamic dressing.
Nor was the generosity confined to the ambiance or the salad, because
the soups were similarly generously portioned.
The Zuppa Di Funghi (Rm23) struck a chord for originality,
being contained in a crusty bread bowl that turned out to be quite light and
flaky within, and not given to sogginess for containing the mushroom soup. The light gray soup was creamy, not too heavy
and generously endowed with bits of mushroom, making for a well-balanced,
refined fresh soup, redolent of mushroom without being overpowering.
Similarly applause-worthy, the Zuppa de Aragosta (Rm41) was dark
yellow, light and sweet, beautifully smooth and accomplished, with a luxurious
silky feel and full-bodied lobster flavour.
There was a chunk of lobster lurking in the thick yellow soup, which was
accompanied by a piece of baked cheese bread that could have made a kid’s meal
on its own.
Completely off-theme, we had to try the most popular of the
dishes – the Mee Mamak Spaghetti (Rm35). It looked unremarkable, a toss of
glistening brown spaghetti with generous servings of squid rings, prawns, hard
tofu, and egg, but the reason for its popularity was evident with a couple of
mouthfuls. It would be sacrilege to
claim that this was superior to the version you find in roadside stalls, but
there you are – it was superior, with smooth spaghetti having absorbed the
flavour of soy-sauce, a dash of lemon and some chilli. It didn’t hurt that the accompaniments were
fresh, with home-made sambal adding highlight to the Mee Mamak – the preferred
choice of Datuks, YBs and distinguished club members who dine here. 
It didn’t put the Western mains into the shadows, however,
because we tried the Canadian Cod Fish (Rm75).
Thankfully, it was of modest proportions. The fish flaked off easily in white
translucent pieces, moist, succulent and sweet.
It was partnered with a subtle honey-vanilla butter sauce, with Tobiko
caviar lending a touch of provocation, the whole being presented on half a
giant tomato.
The Rack of Lamb (Rm75) was a straightforward affair, two
drumsticks of thick meat served with roasted vegetables and a savoury mint
sauce on the side. The lamb was meaty and lean, without that robust lamb aroma,
almost delicate in flavour, and excellent.
We ended with the Crepe Suzette (Rm24), an unusual departure
from tradition with neither orange sauce nor being flambe’ed. Instead, it was a crepe with a fruit mix and
ice cream, dusted with fine sugar and chocolate crumbs and a light, sweet
sauce. We also had the Madagascar Crème
Brulee (Rm20) with a thin caramelized crust and a custard more reminiscent of
panna cotta for its lightness, with a sprinkling of cut strawberry and berries
as a counter to the sweetness of the dessert.
The Managing Director, Mr Ong Boon Par, happened to be
passing by and came around to introduce himself and have a short chat. He was disarmingly friendly and shortly
afterwards, the restaurant manager came around and offered to take us on a tour
of the restaurant.
Connoisseurs Restaurant and Lounge celebrates the finer
indulgences of life, with live entertainment (a band plays daily on weekday
nights from 9.30pm) drinks, cigars and good food in a private club
setting. The décor may not be to
everyone’s taste, but the restaurant does exude a warm bonhomie and an
afterglow of privilege that’s hard to begrudge.
Connoisseurs
Lounge and Restaurant,
First Floor
East Wing,
Kuala Lumpur
Golf and Country Club,
Jalan Bukit
Kiara 1, Bukit Kiara, 60000 Kuala Lumpur,
Tel: +60
3-2094 9888
Website:
http://lounge.connoisseurs.com.my/
Open daily,
12pm-12am.
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