Sunday, 1 November 2015

Light and Breezy


First Published in Options, The Edge, September 28, 2015

A place for a tasty respite from shopping

Away from the frenetic foot traffic of the Pavilion shopping mall, Quivo presents a lush interior, with herringbone patterned tiled floor, and petal-like overhead lights casting a warm glow over the small and cosy interior.  A cake counter displays a tempting selection of cakes, while a serving counter occupies a corner, directly accessing the kitchen.

Part of the extensive Valiram lifestyle group, entry to the restaurant is via the Kate Spade shop from the Mall, or from the Connection linkage which leads to the KLCC elevated walkway.



The restaurant espouses the Mediterranean lifestyle, the menu being light and breezy, with appetizers, pizzas, sandwiches, burgers, pastas and mains – the place for a snack to recuperate from all-day shopping, or on tallying up the bills. However, there’s enough choice on the menu to provide for a substantial meal as well.
 
My party of four started with a couple of salads, the Ole Shrimp and Cheddar (Rm31) and the day’s special, a Nicoise salad (Rm34).  Both were daunting portions, good for a meal in themselves for moderate appetites. Fat grilled Tiger Prawns of the shrimp salad were warm and succulent, topping a generous portion of salad leaves with a honey mustard dressing, and bits of green chili for some kick, but undistinguished otherwise.  The highlight of the Nicoise salad was the meaty grilled tuna pieces, a nice departure from canned, mashed tuna, and served with an almost runny egg coated in batter, with tart olives to perk up the mix, but no anchovies?

We shared an Ocean Catch pizza (Rm37), a thin-crust, oval shaped pizza served on a wooden paddle. It could easily have been a main meal, the thin crust being a little thicker than I would have liked, topped with seafood – shrimp, calamari, mussels, fused together with a thin layer of cheese, and a light scattering of vegetables, but it was the pesto topping which gelled the combination and made the pizza special.

Of the mains, the Pan Seared Barramundi (Rm37) exceeded expectations. Fish can be bland, but that wasn’t true here. Nicely balanced with a generous slice of baked pumpkin, lively salsa and a side of salad, the thickly textured fish was succulent and moist, tasty, a little crispy on the outside, with a delicate, almost smoky flavour, a good interplay of textures and flavour. 

We also ordered the day’s special, a Rib-eye steak (Rm42) served with cooked mushrooms, a mini-salad and some cooked vegetables.  Thin but beautifully succulent, the meat was fresh and bloody (medium-rare), and in a reasonable sized portion for an Asian appetite, with a tangy sauce on the side to spice things up.

Of the bespoke burgers, featuring grain-fed Wagyu beef, we had the Cheddar Cheese and Beef Bacon (Rm34) with wholegrain bread.  Pickles, a mini-salad, Cajun spiced wedges and tomato sauce completed the presentation. The burger itself was layered with cheese, bacon and vegetables.  Although specialty burger joints are not uncommon, Quivo’s version stood tall.  The beef was tender, meaty and excellent, the home-made bread was substantial, with the cheese-bacon topping livening up the package. Nor were the accompaniments mere decoration, the Cajun wedges being crispy and tasty, the salad being fresh and crunchy.

Almost, but not quite sated, we finished off with a dessert of luxurious Red Velvet (Rm17) and Apple Crumble with salted caramel Ice cream (Rm17).  The Red Velvet was moist and rich, but played second fiddle to the Apple Crumble, a sweetly enticing, salty and creamily rich offering, all at the same time.

Independent restaurants often have to try harder compared to shopping mall restaurants because of the almost assured foot traffic for the latter, but Quivo was a pleasant surprise. I was impressed by the reasonable pricing.  No mere pretty face and façade, the meals were accomplished and well executed, and it is well worth a visit, not simply as a refuge from shopping, but because of the food it serves.
Quivo,
Level 3, Connection Precinct, Pavilion KL
168, Jalan Bukit Bintang, 55100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03-21417711


Business Hours: 10am-2am daily.

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