Dining in Style

First Published in The Edge, Options, Oct 23, 2015

Style is nothing without substance, and fortunately for diners, that’s not the case here.

The all-white setting, from floors, pillars to ceiling, with the stark outlines of slim-line furniture, establish the sense of style. Long lines on either side naturally draw the eye to the open kitchen at the back. On one side, the counter displays jewel-like desserts in a multitude of colours and shapes. On the other are oysters in ice and the irregular shapes of breads. 

Not quite quiet elegance, nor gilt bling-bling, Palazzo Viva stakes a claim to clean lines, spaciousness, and long perspectives. Style is evident, orchestrated in the décor, heavy grey stone bowls for soups, thin slabs of gray stone and wood slabs for food presentation, plain white plates, to elaborate, if slightly fussy food plating.

Besides breakfast and lunch offerings, there are daily specials and the assortment of starters, soups and mains. 

The meal was preceded by an amuse-bouche of crisp chicken skin in Jack Daniels sauce, a crisp tidbit that tasted nothing like chicken skin. It was followed in quick succession by the starters, Saute’ed Clams (Rm18) in a startling, buttery sauce combining bird’s eye chili with Italian parsley, and a plate of plump, red Japanese Octopus (Rm20) babies, crunchy and freshly succulent, tossed in a fragrant mix of rosemary, pimentos and roasted garlic.  Thin slices of toasted bread accompanied the two excellent starters, especially that fiery yet mellow clam juice.

Soups were served in beautifully weighted stone bowls on wood panels, nor did the contents of the bowls disappoint. The Roast Pumpkin Soup (Rm18) with cubes of soft pumpkin in a luxuriously creamy yellow broth was comforting, while the slightly-too-salty Wild Mushroom Soup (Rm19) with a mix of shiitake and button mushrooms was almost silky, with mushroom bits to add texture.

The My Italian Salad (Rm19) had all the right ingredients – mozzarella flakes, pitted black olives, mixed salad leaves, but was marred by a slightly past-expiry date olive oil dressing with balsamic vinegar.

Redemption arrived in the form of the Seafood Platter Pizza (Rm42), a thick-crust pizza liberally slathered with squid, scallops and prawns on a bed of sundried tomatoes and buffalo cheese, with the stringy, cheesy texture so popular with Malaysians. The crust was thin and airy enough to avoid being dense or doughy, but stiff enough to support the blend of tomatoes and soft, neutral cheese which highlighted, rather than masked, the fresh seafood bits for an experience best eaten with your hands, never mind the manners.

After all that, a much-needed respite before the mains arrived: Pan Seared Queen Scallops (Rm40), attired in pumpkin sauce, bacon bits, capers and a mix of thinly-sliced vegetables, with a sprinkle of black caviar on each plump scallop. The bivalves were fresh, with the slightly stringy texture of muscle fibre, the natural sweetness beautifully balanced with the blended flavours of the capers, caviar, bacon and vegetables.

With its entourage of mashed potato, mixed vegetables and tomato chutney, the Argentinian Beef Tenderloin (Rm59) was a reminder why this cut of beef is prized for its flavour and tenderness. Succulent and moist, it was browned and crisp outside, and just red enough within to make for a thoroughly enjoyable meal in a not-too daunting portion.

Three formidable chunks of Roasted Rack of Lamb (Rm55) was slightly dry by comparison, but still an excellent meal, taken in small bites with the cauliflower puree and mint sauce, with a generous helping of mixed vegetables, neatly presented in a mosaic of complementary colours and flavours.

The desserts proved irresistible: the colourful baubles on display are flown in weekly from D&G Patisserie near Padua, northeast Italy, and are displayed in their devilishly tempting and colourful variety. With herculean restraint, the ladies in the party settled on just four, a chocolate and coffee cream cake, a sesame and ginger cake with almond, a soft chocolate cake with Avola almond (Rm5 each), and a triangle of raspberry jam and spice cake (Rm15).  In taste as in appearance, the dessert cakes were little bursts of intense flavour, each with its own character – sweet, rich and complex, to be ‘ooh’ed’ and ‘aah-ed’ over.

Palazzo Viva carries the glamor of the Italy of popular perception.  Bold design flourishes, attention to detail, colour-matched accessories, partnered with craftsmanship, are carried over to the food, from the quality of ingredients to presentations. The staff are friendly, service is solicitous and the food is excellent and surprisingly reasonably priced, given its quality and the sleek surroundings. Glamour isn’t to be indulged in every evening or even often, but every now and then, it’s nice to dress up for dinner, and feel a little special.

Palazzo Viva,

No. 10 & 12, Jalan Telawi 2, Bangsar Baru, 59100 Kuala Lumpur.

Tel: +603 2280 0060 / 0061
Fax: +603 2201 1895
info@grandpalazzo.com
Website: http://palazzoviva.com/ 

Business Hours:

Tuesday - Thursday, Sunday : 9:00 a.m. - 1:00 a.m.
Friday - Saturday : 9.00 a.m. - 2.00 a.m.
Monday: Closed