For a reminder that
life doesn’t come in half-sizes.
Occupying a corner lot, Two Sons Bistro exudes a
contemporary vibe with an open plan design. The far wall and one side is a
series of windows, with the other side occupied by the open kitchen behind a
long counter.
Two things stand out in the menu – mussels and clams, and
steaks, with starters, pastas and mains in between. The service was cheerful and almost too
quick, with all our orders – starters and mains - arriving at the same
time.
The modestly-named Chef’s Salad for Two (Rm36) was as big as
a vegetable garden, with lots of Mesclun salad, strips of beef and turkey
bacon, quail eggs, cherry tomatoes and cucumber with a mayonnaise sauce.
Innocuous looking, the salad was a contrast of textures, leafy and bacon-crispiness,
with an unexpected twist of mild spiciness to the whole mix.
The Prawns A La Plancha (Rm 21) looked homely, a red
capsicum stew served in an enamel pot with crispy bread on the side. The purpose of the bread became quickly
apparent, for mopping up the full bodied, sweet-spicy capsicum stew with big
Tiger Prawns, a prelude of what was to come.
Clams and Mussels can be ordered in Mains (900g, Rm40 for
Clams, Rm52 for Mussels) or Starter sizes (450g, Rm22 for Clams, Rm28 for
Mussels), with a choice of 4 sauce types
- Clear, Chargrilled, Cream or Chilli, each featuring 4 variations, for
a total of 16 different sauces, making for no lack of choice! All orders come with a free flow of French
fries and garlic brioche.
We had Mussels with the Chilli Butter Cream with a sauce deserving
of one of those big outdoor crab seafood outlets where everyone goes a little
crazy and overindulges in toasted bread and lots of sauce slathered over
everything. The mussels were like that – meaty little nuggets covered in a
thick, dark red, punchy sauce with plenty of sting. The mussels were fresh, and not overwhelmed
by the strong sauce. The reason for the garlic brioche and French fries was
self-evident, for mopping up the sauce.
For the clams, the Clear Zuppa Vongole was the closest there
was to a light sauce to allow the natural sweetness of the bivalves to express
itself. It was a watery sauce of chilli, garlic, black olives, fresh and
sundried tomatoes, but it was nothing short of saliva-inducing. Striking a balance between being too mean and
spicy on the one hand, and being too mild and wimpy on the other, the sauce was
worthy of being scooped in spoonfuls, or dipped into with garlic bread. The
Venus clams had thick shells but were fresh and meaty, with the Mains portion
being more than enough for sharing. 
After the seafood and pasta, we couldn’t fit in a steak, and
had a Mustard Crust Lamb Rack (Rm55) instead.
Presented in a big dish, a side of mash potatoes was topped with sautéed
vegetables with a couple of meaty ribs encrusted with a thick herb-mustard
crust.
On its own, although the meat was a little dry, the lamb
would have been a creditable dish infused with a mild mustard flavour, prodded
into life by a muted rosemary garlic sauce, but it suffered in comparison to
its take-no-prisoners, finger-licking seafood companion dishes, so a word of
advice – take the milder dishes before embarking on the Mussels and Clams.
There was only the Chocolate Lava Cake (Rm18) left for
Dessert, and it turned out to be crackingly good – evilly oozing hot melted
dark chocolate with a rich consistency paired with the innocent whiteness of
vanilla ice cream for a satisfying finish to a meal that left me bloated from
too much garlic-bread and French fries with sauce.
Leave your expectations of mildly nuanced, delicate flavours
at the door – at Two Sons Bistro, the approach to eating is full throttle, not
the place for a quiet evening, but a reminder that life is to be lived loudly
and lustily, full of flavour and vigour.
Two Sons
Bistro,
A4-G2-8
Publika Solaris Dutamas,
1 Jalan
Dutamas 1,
50480 Kuala
Lumpur.
Tel:
012-2832882
Pork Free.
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Two-Sons-Bistro
Business
Hours:
Monday –
Friday, 10am-10.30pm
Weekends,
9.30-11pm.
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