First Published in Options, The Edge Malaysia, May 1, 2017
Some things change,
like the location and décor, but the food at Erawan continues to enchant.
Erawan Restaurant needs no introduction, having long held a
prominent position in the pantheon of the best dining available in the country.
Having moved from its longtime residence in Kota Damansara, it now occupies new
and spacious digs at DC Mall.
The space is used to good effect, with an ambiance of
restrained luxury. Glorious bursts of colour from bouquets of fresh orchids are
highlighted against a subdued backdrop of polished brown table tops, wooden
chairs and natural coloured stone flooring, with a bright orange screen at the
far wall, accented by gilded classical Thai motifs. Waiters attired in white shirts and brown
aprons are in attendance, while Anand, co-owner, bustles about, making
recommendations and small talk with guests.
Ever the innovator, Chef Korn, the softspoken genius in the
kitchen, has unleashed a panoply of mouth-watering creations, making choosing an
agonizing choice, but Anand is happy to recommend, introducing off-menu items
and specials of the day.
And so it begins, first with a Lemongrass Tea (Rm8) in a
dainty brass container to set the tone for the evening. The off-menu Seafood Salad (Rm58) is a carefully-constructed
stack of bright reds, emerald greens and pearly whites: fresh prawns, squid and
jellyfish strips with tomato, onion and fresh herbs, lightly doused in a tangy,
sweet-sour, salty, appetite-whetting dressing: crunchy vegetables and bouncy
seafood, with an occasional bird’s eye chili to liven things up, in this
delightful opening salvo.
The Royal Lotus Petal Delight (Rm58), recalls the grace of
Thai tradition with purple lotus flower petals presented with a tamarind-sauce
infusion of condiments, scooped into the hollow of a petal. There is the faint
fragrance of lotus flower as the delicate shell approaches the mouth, followed
by a flood of intense savoriness of texture and taste, like a refined version
of Miang Kham.
Fried Rice Crab Meat (Rm128), in a large portion for
sharing, has big chunks of labouriously-deshelled crab meat which are
beautifully firm and meaty. The fried rice is well-coated with flavor, neither
mushy nor over-dry, and accompanied by chopped vegetables, but is not exceptionally
memorable otherwise.
Our faith is quickly restored with the Cockles Curry (Rm38),
plump fresh cockles in a bright orange curry sauce with shredded acacia and
betel leaves. It’s not lavish or particularly rich, just soaringly good, with a
fresh, tastebud-awakening sharp flavor as a backdrop for the blood-juicy
cockles.
The recommended day’s special doesn’t disappoint: Oxtail
Green Curry (Rm98), with chunky oxtail pieces in a milky green curry with herbs
and Thai eggplant. Taken with Thai jasmine white rice, the curry is refined, beautifully
smooth and balanced, neither too rich nor spicy. Pea eggplant, which look like green peas, but
with a firmer bite, lend a satisfying bitterish finish. The oxtail meat, soaked in the curry flavor,
has an almost jelly-like consistency, yet retains some bite.
Even the plain fried Chayote with Garlic (Rm30) is executed
with flair and flourish, bright, tender greens with a crunchy, fresh texture,
while the Crabmeat Omelette (Rm98) is a thick disc of crispy browned egg coating
a fluffy, steaming-hot interior packed with generous helpings of fresh crab
meat, not in the least oily, and satisfyingly substantial.
For dessert, the perennial favourite Thap Thim Krob (Rm15)
features a twist: ruby-red water chestnut and pieces of yellow jackfruit with
shaved ice in coconut milk, possessing a faint smoky aroma, which is an
absorption of aromatic Thai incense burned to flavor the dish! Candied Cassava (Rm15), coated with thickened
rich coconut milk, has a delicate, brittle texture, while the Mango Platter
(Rm38) is a contrast of yellow mango slices, pandan-flavoured sticky rice,
home-made coconut ice cream and a small red flower for contrast. It’s a beautiful balance, with the home-made
ice cream so good I file a mental note to return another day for a scoop of the
stuff (Rm12 each).
Chef Korn hasn’t lost his passion for food and
inventiveness, continuing to experiment and provide gastronomic artistry
without veering away from the roots of traditional Thai cuisine. In its new guise, Erawan provides cosseting
luxury, a refined climate to experience the sublimely good offerings from the
kitchen. Eating at Erawan is not an inexpensive affair, as far as Thai food
goes, but this is no ordinary Thai restaurant.
Restaurant
Erawan Sdn Bhd,
Lot L1-17
& L1-18, First Floor, DC Mall, Plaza DC Damansara City,
6, Jalan
Damanlela, 50490 Kuala Lumpur.
(Pork-free)
Business
hours: Lunch 12-3pm daily,
Dinner: 6.30-8.30 pm for 1st sitting,
8.30-10.30 for 2nd sitting, daily.
No comments:
Post a Comment