First published in Options, The Edge Malaysia, June 19, 2017
Northern Indian cuisine, delivered with
panache and a family connection
An invitation to “Dip and Eat” sounds like steamboat, but
that’s the call at Flour, the oddly named Northern Indian restaurant that sees
sellout crowds on weekends.
It’s explained that there are 30 different types of Indian
bread, made from different types of flour with a variety of preparation types,
each accompanied by a curry or chutney for in which to dip and eat. Hence, “Flour”.
The restaurant occupies a double lot in Damansara Heights.
Hanging pendant lamps suspended from a blacked-out ceiling throw a cosy glow
onto wooden topped tables, with bench seating against the wall, and cushioned chairs. It’s not pretentious or posh, not too noisy even when the restaurant’s
full of chomping, conversing diners.
As Indian restaurants go, the menu is modest, with snacks,
meats, vegetables, breads, and drinks, but it’s also chatty, with information
on the origins of the restaurant (a couple in love with each other and food),
the food (from the husband’s father’s restaurant’s recipes in Mumbai), and a context
for the dishes served.
Flour serves a variety of curries in small metal pots, or
cocottes, accompanied by a bread or rice of your choice. A charcoal brazier is brought to the table if
you order the grilled meats.
We used our table grill to good effect, with meaty fillets
of pomfret (Rm32) coated in a mint-coriander marinade, and also Chicken (Rm28),
which when matched with the Peanut Dip, tasted like satay, although I also
liked the Tomato dip for its bright character.
And you can’t go far wrong with fresh, charcoal-grilled fish with a
Mint-Coriander dip.
The Paneer Butter Masala (Rm20) was raisin-sweet, with
nuggets of soft cottage cheese in a bright-orange, cheerful tomato-based curry,
while the Bhindi Curry (Rm18), was a richly-spiced, neutral curry that didn’t
overwhelm the taste of the finely-cut
pieces of okra.
The Lasooni Ghost (Rm26) was robust, with pieces of
slow-cooked mutton in a dark curry redolent with garlic, and a contrast to the
somewhat lackluster Makhani Dal (Rm18).
It was easy to be fooled by the creaminess of the Murgh
Bharta (Rm22) as a hefty spicy punch lurked in the yellow curry with chicken
pieces, but it was still nicely balanced and an excellent accompaniment to the
hot bread.
I liked the distinctive flavor of the Ajwaini Baingan (Rm20),
with soft pieces of eggplant lending it substance, as compared to the less
impactful Veg Kofta (Rm18), with deep-fried vegetable balls of indeterminate
flavor in a rich but dull curry.
The breads we tried were excellent, fresh and fragrant, with
fluffy, air-filled Puris (Rm4), satisfyingly dense yet loosely-textured Lachha
(Rm5) with distinctive creases, crisp and hefty Tandoori Roti (Rm4) and the
wonderfully flavourful Kulcha (Rm5).
The Biryanis made a splash, being served in small but
densely-packed earthen pots, and overflowing with heady flavor, more so the
mutton (Rm28) than the chicken (Rm25). The rice was fluffy, light and
delightfully infused with the dense flavor of the meats and spices mixed well
and thoroughly.
The breads were substantial and fragrant, the Biryanis packed a knockout
punch. Friendly, efficient service,
well-thought out presentations and excellent pricing.
Flour
Restaurant,
69 and 71G,
Jalan Medan Setia 1,
Plaza
Damansara, Bukit Damansara,
50490 Kuala
Lumpur.
Tel:
012-9600053
Business
Hours:
11.30am-3pm,
6.30pm-10.30pm,
Closed on
Mondays, and Tuesdays at lunchtime.
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