Simple yet
sophisticated, good, strong bread can be a thing of joy
Those of us who grew up on white, factory-made sandwich
loaves can rejoice at the rise of artisanal bakeries in KL: the smell of
freshly-baked bread can be invigorating.
Good bread is much more than being about
appearances. Some bakeries don’t just bake breads, they produce
sandwiches as well, thus the bakery-café-restaurant. And if you hanker after a good sandwich made
with home-baked fresh bread, try these for starters:
Table and Apron is
a neighbourhood restaurant serving fusion food. It also makes bread, turning out fresh sourdough daily, with honey-oat
and apple sourdough on weekends. The finished product looks gorgeous, brown and
crusty in a tight loaf. 
Open-face sandwiches:
the Smoked Mackerel Pate (Rm19), a tight ball of smoked mackerel and
cheese, highlighted the apple sourdough, which had a fairly loose texture with
large air pockets, and was a trifle dry on its own, with a hint of apple and a
crusty rind. Pork Rillettes (Rm18) on
sourdough were an excellent combination, the sourdough having a hard crust and being
of middle density.
The most photogenic of the restaurants, with a wide range of
other items on the menu, good coffee and presentations with flair, its
sourdough forms a good base for its imaginative, appealing open face
sandwiches.
Table and
Apron,
23, Jalan
SS20/11, Petaling Jaya
47400
Selangor.
Tel:
03-77334000
Business Hours:
11.30am-4pm, 6pm-10pm daily, closed on Mondays.
Der Backmeister is
a German bakery that imports all its ingredients from Germany, even the wheat
flour. A big glass panel allows guests
to look into the bakery which turns out fresh breads and pastries daily,
eschewing preservatives and premixes and “following traditional recipes”. The restaurant builds
its menu around the breads.
The Bratwurst (Rm12) is simple, a meat sausage with white
bun, mustard and slaw. The bun was a crusty golden-brown outside, with a
satisfying, dense texture, and a rounded flavour to accompany the succulent,
tasty bratwurst.
The multigrain bread for the Chicken Pesto Sandwich (Rm18) had
presence, not a thing you mindlessly chew: this one makes you pause, look and
say, “Hey what’s this?” Neither stodgy nor heavy, it was robust and earthy,
with a hint of moistness, and aroma.
Specialising in breads and sandwiches, this is the place for
a filling, no-frills, no-pretense, authentic German-style sandwich. The breads are spectacularly good.
Der
Backmeister,
No 40,
Persiaran Za’aba, TTDI 60000 K Lumpur
Tel: 03-28560613
Business
hours: 8am-7pm daily, closed on Mondays
Kenny Hills Bakers is
a small shop in an old block of apartments in a lush residential area of
KL. It takes baking seriously, turning
out a variety of pastries and organic artisan breads daily. Besides coffee, the menu features hand-tossed sourdough pizzas, all day
brunch and gourmet sandwiches served on organic-flour baguettes or croissants. 
The Turkey Ham and Gruyere Cheese Croissant (Rm19) was big,
businesslike and rotund. It was fluffy yet substantial enough not to be another
pretty, flaky, oily, airy thing collapsing at first bite, and it was charming
in a brisk manner, making for a good lunch with a ribbon of lettuce, a slice of
cheese and ham.
The Pine-Nut Pesto Chicken (Rm21) was served in a
healthy-sized baguette section on request. Warm and crusty, with a good, firm
texture, the fresh bread packed a good wallop, with a thick chicken pesto
filling. A basic baguette isn’t often
this good.
The place is
cramped but charming in a rustic manner.
It focuses on baking breads and pastries, with a strong artisanal
flavor, with good, solid offerings, a selection of very good breads and sizeable
sandwiches.
Kenny Hills
Bakers,
1.1B, Taman
Tunku,
Off Langgak
Tunku,
50480 Kuala
Lumpur
Tel:
03-62064111
Business Hours: Daily from 8am-7pm.
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