GRUB

First published in Options, The Edge Malaysia, 5 Feb 2018

http://optionstheedge.com/topic/food/food-review-2nd-floor-grub-ahong-and-friends

GRUB is part self-service canteen with an uncharacteristically sophisticated menu. Ahong, the “friendly fat man” as he calls himself, says his food doesn’t conform to any particular genre. It’s Western, where French-Italian crashes into Hainanese-Western, totters into Indian and wanders to East Coast, USA, with incursions into local.   

Mismatched cutlery, drinks, napkins, ice – all self-service - and ordering at the counter drive down costs and perversely add to the rough charm and unvarnished honesty of the place.  Décor? What décor?  Plain tables and plastic chairs, uneven lighting, an open kitchen with store, air-conditioning upstairs and lots of noise.  No frills, it’s all about the grub.

There’s a wine list with corkage charged by the person. Service is quick, and the portions are generous with a slap-on presentation style.  It’s meaty, cheeky and pork-free.

Fried French Quail with Roasted Grapes (Rm9.50) is just that, but the bird’s nicely browned, juicy and meaty. Roasted Beetroot, Fresh Fruits and Feta Salad (Rm13.50) is a colourful medley for the vegetarian, sweet with honey, smooth with feta cheese and crunchy with jackfruit.

Smoked Brisket (Rm30) comprises thick chunks of beautifully just-done, tender meaty sections that come apart easily under the knife, with pickled onions and chili, potato salad, and a coconut curry gravy, but there’s no train wreck, only surprising harmony, rich, full flavours and contrasting textures.

The unconventional Lamb and Clams (Rm35) works well, with a hot sourdough roll to soak up the broth, which is neither clammy, fishy nor sheepish, and unapologetic with instant noodles and vegetables in the mix. It’s satisfying, and balanced, considering the starting proposition.

Local Seafood Bouillabaisse (Rm25) is a stew with lemony or is that tom-yum, accents, on fine pasta, with squid, clams and grilled fish, not quite your idea of a bouillabaisse, but good in spite of it.

Desserts are also promising, with a ginger-infused, creamy Taufu Fa Cheesecake (Rm12) and a densely moist, accomplished Carrot Cake (Rm10).  Inexpensive, irreverent, generous and fun, GRUB is different from anything else, and the grub’s good.

GRUB by Ahong and Friends,

608, Jalan 17/10 Petaling Jaya 46400

Tel: 016-9232983

FB: www.facebook.com/hongmasterchef/

Business Hours: Tuesday – Sunday, 6pm-10.45pm, Fridays, 12-3pm, Sat-Sun, 11.45am-2pm

Closed on Mondays