By Lee Yu Kit
Pictures courtesy
of Chuan Hung Noodles
Sichuan noodles in the
middle of corporate Singapore
The restaurant was barely a week old when I popped by to
catch up with Megs, whom I haven’t seen in over a year. The restaurant was less than a hundred meters
from the Teluk Ayer MRT station, located in Singapore’s financial district,
with steel and glass towers gleaming in the late afternoon light.
Inside the restaurant |
Tucked into a little corner of another metal-jacketed, tall
office complex, was Chuan Hung Noodles.
And there was Megs, looking elegant and cool after a press review and
photo shoot of her new restaurant. The
last time we’d met, we were hiking a volcano in Indonesia and were grimy and
mud-splattered.
The restaurant is small within, with barely a half dozen
tables, and bar-like seating along the walls, but there’s an airy window and
doorway, looking out onto a shaded corridor where you can help yourself to cold
or warm water. There’s a small cut-out looking into the kitchen, and the whole
set-up throws off warm, cozy vibes amidst the impersonal, corporate
surroundings.
Signature Braised Beef Rice Noodles |
The restaurant serves Sichuan noodles, sourced from a small
village in Sichuan, China, and that includes the cook, noodles and ingredients.
The small menu, with Noodles, Add-Ons
and Small Plates, offers a number of options, with either Noodles or Rice
Noodles and a choice of Clear, Mixed or Red soups, the latter being of the
tongue-tingling, stomach-searing variety that Sichuan cuisine is well known
for.
Animal innards and tongue spice up the mix further, but I
wisely selected Shredded Chicken with Long Beans (S$11.50), served in a large
shallow bowl – narrow-cut rice noodles in a colourful mix of preserved
vegetables and shredded chicken.
The white rice noodles had a mild texture, with a spring, slippery
yet not slimy, with a middling firmness, and fine enough to slide from the
wooden chopsticks. It’s that last two percent which makes noodles memorable or
forgettable, and these noodles, which are specially made in a village in
Sichuan, were good, with nicely balanced qualities.
I’d chosen the Mixed soup, with a clear, light-red complexion,
not at all oily, with a bit of sting, but not enough to upset the composure
overall. The soup was sweet and clear,
in the way that Chinese soups tend to be. A well settled disposition afterwards
lent credence to Meg’s claim of not using any MSG. Ingredients enriched the
dish, even without the addition of the table condiments of hand-ground Sichuan
peppers in oil and shredded salted vegetables, which you can scoop into your
noodles for extra oomph.
Sweet Fermented Rice |
Desserts are all but unknown in Sichuan cuisine, but the
Sweet Fermented Rice (S$3.50) did nicely, a super-smooth gelatinous white gel,
with sweet sauce and a few condiments for colour. What’s interesting is that the cook
hand-grinds glutinous rice in a stone pestle and mortar to this smooth paste
before further processing.
A bowl of noodles in soup is deceptively simple, yet its
very simplicity makes it difficult to master. Chuan Hung Noodles is a modest
outlet, worth a visit for its specialization in its niche, of down-to-earth
Sichuan noodles, its faithfulness to its roots and its artisanal approach to producing
a good bowl of noodles.
King Prawns Noodles Vine Pepper |
Chuan Hung
Noodles,
51 Telok
Ayer Street #01-01 S048441, Singapore
Business
hours: 11am-8pm daily.
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